Sunday, February 2, 2014

Thoughts

Electrolyte/Catalyst

After some research I found that Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH) will be required in a ratio of 1 teaspoon to 8 liters of distilled water. I'm going to find out where I can get some, or if Dr. LaDine had any she could spare.

Safety Bubbler

There doesn't seem to be much information about the building plans of a bubbler, so I intend to use the leftover PVC pipe as the tube, and will just purchase similar end pieces like a cap and fill cap. The diagrams that show the bubblers in them look simple. Tubing from the hydroxy generator carrying the hydroxy gas goes down into the bubbler, towards the bottom.

The Steam trap shown in this diagram isn't present anywhere else, so I assume it is unnecessary, however the one-way valve, wire mesh, safety bubbler, and water trap all make sense in their design implementation. (opinions are welcome on the necessity of the steam trap)

Ammeter (meter used to measure current/amps)

In the plans they refer to the use of a meter in order to know what amperage the cell is giving off, based on the amount of catalyst in the distilled water. The more amperage, the more production of hydroxy gas. In order to measure the amperage I made the decision and bought an ammeter that measures 0-15amps off amazon. The generator that I am building should draw up to 15 amps, which should work nicely with the ammeter purchased.

Fuel Injection Speed Bumb

When adding hydroxy gas to the engine, changes to the air/fuel mix ratio will occur. This normally isn't an issue, however the ATV has an onboard computer that will increase the amount of fuel being put into the cylinder from this change, therefore decreasing fuel efficiency. In order to overcome this I will need to alter the information being sent to the computer through a controller, however this has its side of possible problems.
"A simple control circuit board can be added to alter the sensor signal and nudge the fuel computer into  producing slightly better air/fuel mixes. Unfortunately, there is a severe downside to doing this. If, for any  reason, the fuel mix is set too high for an extended period, then the excess fuel being burnt in the catalytic  converter can raise the temperature there high enough to melt the internal components of the converter. On  the other hand, if the circuit board is switched to a mix which is too lean, then the engine temperature can be  pushed high enough to damage the valves, which is an expensive mistake." (page 1 of pdf)
Unfortunately the recommended controller costs $150-$200. As of now my decision is to not purchase the controller, but rather see the post installation GPH numbers. If enough efficiency is gained i.e. 10% or more then I'll withhold from buying the controller, as my objective of increased efficiency will have been gained.


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